食物的历史:土豆泥(上)
日期:2022-08-16 16:03

(单词翻译:单击)

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During the Seven Years War of the mid-1700s, a French army pharmacist named Antoine-Augustin Parmentier was captured by Prussian soldiers.

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在18世纪中期的七年战争中,一位名叫安托万·奥古斯丁·帕门蒂尔的法国军队药剂师被普鲁士士兵抓获*i3X^-2_rhKVW8

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As a prisoner of war, he was forced to live on rations of potatoes.

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作为一名战俘,他被迫靠土豆为生!&#+oKlaq)5

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In mid-18th century France, this would practically qualify as cruel and unusual punishment: potatoes were thought of as garbage food - it was feed for livestock, and they were actually believed to cause leprosy in humans.

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在18世纪中期的法国,这实际上是一种残酷和不同寻常的惩罚:土豆被认为是垃圾食物——它是牲畜的饲料,人们认为它会导致麻风病VTGbGZdkL9mDzD5afbp|

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The fear was so widespread that the French passed a law against them in 1748.

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这种恐惧十分普遍,以至于法国在1748年通过了一项针对土豆生产和消费的法律0[mTcw.2B,XaF(Qk3[&b

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But as Parmentier discovered in prison, potatoes weren't deadly.

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但正如帕门蒂尔在狱中发现的那样,土豆并不致命qLQuW^F3@Db

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In fact, they were pretty tasty.

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事实上,它们非常美味Z%^c%*N#KXozuJClv

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Following his release at the end of the war, the pharmacist began to proselytize to his countrymen about the wonders of the tuber.

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战争结束,这位药剂师获释后,开始向他的同胞们宣扬土豆的奇妙之处yVf56][L+S55s#)d

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One way he did this was by demonstrating all the delicious ways it could be prepared, including mashed.

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他宣传的一种方式是展示了土豆所有美味的制作方法,包括捣碎土豆做土豆泥T1JCLn!2RqD_W8qymuDe

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By 1772, France had lifted its ban on potatoes.

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到1772年,法国解除了对土豆的禁令68+0cm_3z(WA

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Centuries later, you can order mashed potatoes in dozens of countries, from fast food to fine dining.

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几个世纪后,你可以在几十个国家点到土豆泥这款食物,无论是快餐还是高端餐饮f2V|4smGl.NLx[

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These are cold.

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这些都是凉的]5h|cb6px,s**5nljp;f

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Hi, I'm Justin Dodd, and welcome to Food History, a new series from Mental Floss where we dive deep into the amazing culinary stories that lead to the food on our plates.

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大家好,我是贾斯汀·多德,欢迎收看《心理牙线》的新系列节目《食物的历史》,在本节目中,我们将深入探讨我们餐桌上食物的烹饪故事qC)LBDd(uaZyr

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If you have an idea for a food to explore in a future episode, make sure you leave it in the comments.

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如果你对一种食物有什么想法,想在下一集中了解,一定要在评论区留言LD~]]ZjYMn3*Gs^WV

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Now, in the case of mashed potatoes, it's a journey that takes 10,000 years and traverses the mountains of Peru and the Irish countryside; it features cameos from Thomas Jefferson and a food scientist who helped invent a ubiquitous snack food.

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让我们回到土豆泥eKXQ5[Ey1k*。它穿越了一段长达1万年的旅程,穿越了秘鲁的山脉和爱尔兰的乡村;本期还将提到托马斯·杰斐逊和一位发明了一种风靡全球的零食的食品科学家=y^WpWBJB5&D_

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Before we get to them, though, let's go back to the beginning.

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不过,在谈到他们之前,让我们回到起点^X6G(k8L[bCvK

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Potatoes aren't native to Ireland - or anywhere in Europe, for that matter.

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土豆不是爱尔兰原产的——就此而言,也不原产于欧洲任何地方Px^L&Qoct~V%%Ho

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They were most likely domesticated in the Andes mountains of Peru and northwest Bolivia, where they were being used for food at least as far back as 8000 BCE.

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它们很可能是在秘鲁和玻利维亚西北部的安第斯山脉出产的,在那里,土豆至少在公元前8000年就被用作食物]0z;QoiY[9[sEA^a*

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These early potatoes were very different from the potatoes most of us know today.

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这些早年生长的土豆与我们今天所熟知土豆有很大的不同VTn1^Q~HBK6Zm|)W-

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They came in a variety of shapes and sizes and had a bitter taste that no amount of cooking could get rid of.

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它们的形状和大小多种多样,有一种怎么烹饪也无法去除的苦味1ck[lajZL5)yVL9

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They were also slightly poisonous.

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还有轻微的毒性L-QrB8_G*eDX]xj]JE@%

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To combat this toxicity, wild relatives of the llama would lick clay before eating them.

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为了对抗这种毒性,美洲驼的野外近亲物种在吃土豆之前会舔粘土2Kf7AO@2X!NSx-0E

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The toxins in the potatoes would stick to the clay particles, allowing the animals to consume them safely.

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土豆中的毒素会附着在粘土颗粒上,让动物可以安全地食用Qs3a6+Ho%8#M_yOCOV_

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Andeans noticed this and started dunking their potatoes in a mixture of clay and water - which is not the most appetizing gravy, perhaps, but an ingenious solution to their potato problem.

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安第斯人注意到了这一点,开始将土豆浸入粘土和水的混合物中——这可能不是很开胃,但却是解决土豆毒性问题的好办法D-|kHORCYcpu

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Even today, when selective breeding has made most potato varieties safe to eat, some poisonous varieties can still be bought in Andean markets, where they are sold alongside digestion-aiding clay dust.

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如今的选择性育种使大多数马铃薯品种可以安全食用,但即便如此,一些安第斯市场上仍然可以买到有毒品种的土豆,与帮助消化的粘土一起出售rEKk3)60SS27nEU

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How cool is that?

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是不是很酷?

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By the time Spanish explorers brought the first potatoes to Europe from South America in the 16th century, they had been bred into a fully edible plant.

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到16世纪西班牙探险家将第一批土豆从南美带到欧洲时,它们已经被培育成完全可以食用的植物x+Br)W)EtriGRM2.8Mk0

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It took them a while to catch on overseas, though.

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不过,土豆过了一段时间才在海外流行起来pja,lglZ]kd%VEU

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By some accounts, European farmers were suspicious of plants that weren't mentioned in the Bible; others say it was the fact that potatoes grow from tubers, rather than seeds.

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有些说法认为,欧洲农民对圣经中没有提到的植物持怀疑态度;另一些人说,这是因为土豆是植物的块茎,而不是种子ue@Vwot.qs7_Mg

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Modern potato historians (known as tater-ologists in my potato fan fiction) debate these points.

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现代土豆历史学家(在我的土豆同人小说中被称为洋芋历史学家)就这些观点进行了评论_zE]UVdAMxNx09

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Cabbage's omission from the Bible didn't seem to hurt its popularity, and tulip cultivation, you know, using bulbs instead of seeds, was happening at the same time.

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卷心菜在圣经中也没有出现,但似乎并没有影响它的受欢迎程度;而郁金香的种植使用球茎栽培也发生在同一时期HDmpfTOIS=]

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It may have just been a horticultural problem.

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土豆没能流行起来可能只是种植问题*E=hxvWo6xCG1)ax.j

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The South American climates potatoes thrived in were unlike those found in Europe, especially in terms of hours of daylight in a day.

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南美的气候与欧洲不同,适合土豆茁壮生长,特别是在日照时间方面HW!*]BBz0xq)k%%

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In Europe, potatoes grew leaves and flowers, which botanists readily studied, but the tubers they produced remained small even after months of growing.

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欧洲的土豆长有叶子和花,植物学家可以轻松对此进行研究,但他们种植的土豆即使生长几个月仍然很小igfGmM,@M(+1(cF

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This particular problem began to be remedied when the Spanish started growing potatoes on the Canary Islands, which functioned as a sort of middle ground between equatorial South America and more northerly European climes.

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当西班牙人开始在加那利群岛种植土豆时,这个特殊的问题得到了解决(niZYUf(8GYsrJ。加那利群岛是南美洲赤道地区和更靠北的欧洲气候之间的中间地带JZ172N5%g+Xg!)WcY.v

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It's worth pointing out, though, that there is some evidence for the cultural concerns I mentioned earlier.

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然而,值得指出的是,有一些证据证明了我之前提到的文化担忧Y6UNdgrFH[r8Qsd

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There are clear references to people in the Scottish Highlands disliking that potatoes weren't mentioned in the bible, and customs like planting potatoes on Good Friday and sometimes sprinkling them with holy water suggest some kind of fraught relationship to potato consumption.

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有明确证据表明苏格兰高地的人不喜欢土豆,因为圣经中没有提到它,而像在耶稣受难日种植土豆、向土豆洒圣水这样的习俗表明,人们对食用土豆存在担忧=iCbbfs+656%5Bo#G

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They were becoming increasingly common, but not without controversy.

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土豆越来越普及,但也不是不存在争议xUfYfXPH%m),-^gw|sMp

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As time went on, concerns about potatoes causing leprosy severely damaged their reputation.

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随着时间的推移,人们认为土豆会导致麻风病的担忧严重影响了土豆的售卖RurCy@~hpZP.

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A handful of potato advocates, including our boy Parmentier, were able to turn its image around.

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而一些包括帕门蒂尔在内的土豆倡导者,扭转了它的形象tfS.WCmMAgxRMu.eTl&4

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In her 18th-century recipe book The Art of Cookery, English author Hannah Glasse instructed readers to boil potatoes, peel them, put them into a saucepan, and mash them well with milk, butter, and a little salt.

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英国作家汉娜·格拉斯在她18世纪的食谱书《烹饪的艺术》中,指导读者将土豆煮熟,去皮,放入平底锅,然后加入牛奶、黄油和少许盐将其捣碎pCv7UV^pU~S[ySN]

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In the United States, Mary Randolph published a recipe for mashed potatoes in her book, The Virginia Housewife.

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美国的玛丽·兰道夫在她的书《弗吉尼亚家庭主妇》中记载了土豆泥的食谱fsbM.X|._QlZU(5cka&=

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Randolph's recipe calls for half an ounce of butter and a tablespoon of milk for a pound of potatoes, which is clearly insufficient, in the eyes of this Virginia housewife.

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伦道夫的食谱表示,制作一磅土豆需要半盎司黄油和一汤匙牛奶,在这位弗吉尼亚家庭主妇看来,一磅土豆显然是不够的bQX%HbCa4xqvI_vm)ueG

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