非裔美国人与“灵魂食物”的发展(4)
日期:2022-10-06 16:03

(单词翻译:单击)

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My name is Chris Scott, and I've been a chef for about 38 years or so.

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我是克里斯·斯科特,我已经当了大约38年的厨师!r(1kliIN.2&GR)O~Dy

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A lot of people, when you talk about southern food or soul food, immediately go right to fried chicken, ribs, watermelon, red velvet, things of that nature.

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当你谈到南方食物或灵魂食物,很多人立刻就会想到炸鸡、排骨、西瓜、红丝绒之类的东西i3(FjMFJoAw6@

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Those items are soul food, yes.

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是的,这些东西是灵魂食物73GpLapM|&k&

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But, it kind of falls into a category called "celebration foods".

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但是,这些食物属于“庆典食品”一类1q)nI]c4bYIU4.

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Let's say your sister is getting married, or it's a Sunday dinner, you know.

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比方说你妹妹要结婚了,或者星期天晚上的时候0!rg#*Fu;%

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That's when you break out all of the good stuff.

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你会做一桌子好菜-Qh~8i7|GP*SS.xhTAg~

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But you know, a lot of soul food, AKA southern food, is based on the agriculture.

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但很多灵魂食物,也就是南方食物,都是以农业为基础的;8~!=mc_80&XqN^J

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So whatever we were growing is what we were eating.

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所以我们种什么吃什么!6pPX;ObfoMv6ctc+

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And mainly, it was always a vegetable-based kind of thing.

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并且它主要以蔬菜为基础9fm1mw*1WA&

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So what I'm doing is a really common, yet historical dish.

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我正在做的就是一道非常常见的传统菜肴aNrzj5x(gMd@

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It's just some cornbread at the bottom of the bowl, and overtop of that is a little bit of neckbone stew.

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只是在碗底放一些玉米面包,上面是一点炖牛脖骨i=rv(CD5ZErbrr(@da_!

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The birdman was the individual, man or woman, that was in charge of raising the birds on the plantation, all the way from egg to slaughter.

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养鸡人是负责在种植园养鸡的人,他们负责鸡从出生到屠宰的全过程s2GZ)Ws4FqlBSQq

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Even after slavery, we took our husbandry skills from raising chickens and everything, and we were able to open up butcher shops, and become chicken farmers, owning our own land.

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即使在奴隶制解除之后,我们的畜牧技能也是从养鸡中学来的,我们能开肉铺,做一个养鸡的农民,拥有自己的土地0u[NV3=4]Xh

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You know, black folk back then weren't permitted by law to own any livestock.

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当时,法律不允许黑人拥有任何牲畜Q,D,11Y[X8

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But chickens were not on that list.

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但鸡不在此列iyeT8%1i-u0I7cD04hq6

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So it was just that one humble bird, through resilience and triumph, we were able to breakthrough into our own financial kind of freedom.

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因此,仅仅只有一只微不足道的小鸡,我们也通过坚韧的努力取得了胜利,实现了自己的财务自由pI&pILflS9E7ned9ew3

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There are black people still in this country today that won't eat fried chicken in public because of the stigma that surrounds it.

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今天,在这个国家,仍然有黑人不愿在公共场合吃炸鸡,因为它被污名化了FLPR6YVm6~auo|U*

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There's a lot of pain that comes with southern food.

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南方食物伴随着很多类似的痛苦)0g,Nnl@Bu|*xFt

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I think that the birdman is that story of triumph.

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我认为养鸡人是个成功的故事b24)Wp=Dzp!w.P-)Yb(s

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More and more I just try to get that word out, that we were doing something incredible.

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我越来越多地试着把这个词传播出去,证明我们正在做一些非凡的事情aa[E8Y]N8)Y0+O

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This food was around long before I was born, and will be after I'm gone.

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这种食物在我出生之前很久就已经存在了,在我死后也会继续存在iJpS(86(W.YBbM#KW-B

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But whatever I can do to talk about the hands that made it, talk about the hands that grew it, talk about the hands that cleaned up, that's an important story.

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但无论我能做什么来谈论制作它、种植它、打扫它的双手,这都是一个重要的故事2f9On,tw];ja

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You feel that.

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你能感觉到I@vP(js(;#.KNKm

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You feel the hands of your ancestors coming through.

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你能感觉到先辈的手跨越了时空2DJhMeEKH]CEaM2

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You kind of hear your grandmother's voice in your ear as you're doing the same dishes that you watched her make.

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当你在做你曾经看着祖母做的食物时,你会听到她的声音在你耳边响起vwojPQ8NA8d4RALS-

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You feel a real connection to it.

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你会感觉到一种真正的联系)Hpu9&lKrwc

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It's the power of food.

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这是食物的力量6IYu@u2),B;cF

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The food, yeah, it is important.

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是的,食物很重要M8nHid6HHdu#XVg[

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But what's more important is that communion with each other.

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但更重要的是彼此之间的交流mz#QhdR8b0

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Now don't get me wrong.

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别误会我的意思nOS[V|y+0D

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I enjoy fried chicken, I enjoy biscuits.

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我喜欢炸鸡,我喜欢饼干RQ^BuHRkL+TuK[I

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Those recipes have been in my family for many years.

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这些食谱在我的家族中已经存在很多年了;Tr3;|V(SRmM

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But I'm so much more than that.

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但我做的远不止于此~4zw([~vI2;CVr3L)k

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So much more than that.

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远不止于此JLMHHnvf=R!Wy^c%

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Deep-frying represents its own intersection of necessity and heritage.

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油炸食物体现了必要性和传统性的交集4L6LN45ov8[krA%+3

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There weren't any ovens in the slaves' quarters, so without the means to roast meat or vegetables, frying with hot oil became a standard cooking method.

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奴隶住的地方没有烤箱,因此没办法烤肉或蔬菜,用热油油炸成了一种标准的烹饪方式BpWRluz;@kaN-

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And as a technique already in wide use in West Africa, it was a familiar method of cooking for some enslaved Africans.

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作为一种在西非已经广泛使用的技术,它对一些被奴役的非洲人来说是一种熟悉的烹饪方法f1Y@4#7y[|T

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The only time slaves could be relatively indulgent with their meals was Sunday.

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奴隶们唯一能够稍微放纵自己饮食的时间是星期天wEcz^NYIl.+U

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As a religious day of rest, this was often their one day off, though at least part of it was spent preparing for the work of the week ahead.

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作为宗教休息日,这一天通常是他们的休息日,虽然至少有一部分时间要用来为下周的工作做准备W=8p)lE[1n+#usUq3_XG

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On some plantations, slaves had conditional access to ovens, baking equipment, and ingredients like milk and flour on Sundays.

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在一些种植园,奴隶在周日能够接触到烤箱、烘焙设备以及牛奶和面粉等配料dsS_]+_%O)

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This was the day they made cobblers, biscuits, and ribs, and other specialty items that are regarded as standard soul food fare today.

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这一天,他们会制作馅饼、饼干、排骨和其他今天被视为标准灵魂食物的菜肴J;&zjrpjPj3.MWq

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It was also a rare opportunity for families to sit down and enjoy a meal together.

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这也是一个难得的机会,让家人可以坐下来一起用餐P5aThDs0um2f[]WA

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Like certain ingredients and cooking techniques, communal eating was a practice from West African culture that remained essential to the African American way of life, even through centuries of slavery.

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和某些食材和烹饪技术一样,集体用餐是西非文化的一部分,即使在奴隶制盛行的几个世纪,这种文化对非裔美国人依旧至关重要I[9[grFAtE37%QV(!v7

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What we think of today as soul food was, in some ways, established north of the Mason-Dixon line, half a century after the Civil War ended.

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某种程度上来说,我们今天认为的灵魂食物是在南北战争结束半个世纪后,在梅森-狄克逊线以北大量出现的XfP.g%[8Hr;6

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Between 1916 and 1970, a wave of rural black Americans, like Princess Pamela Strobel herself, migrated from the South to Northern cities like Chicago and New York in search of economic opportunities and an escape from Jim Crow laws.

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1916年至1970年间,一波像帕梅拉·斯特罗贝尔公主这样的美国农村黑人从南方移民到芝加哥和纽约等北方城市,以寻找工作并逃避种族歧视的法律6|ywB(~|]&!I

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A total of 6 million African Americans relocated during this period, which came to be known as the Great Migration.

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在此期间,共有600万非洲裔美国人重新定居,这一时期后来被称为大迁徙Qq+WLQ]hQ92HgJ)

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Though these migrants were Americans, the way they treated the cuisine of their roots echoed that of many immigrant groups.

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尽管这些移民也是美国人,但其他美国人对待非裔美国人制作的本土美食的方式与对待许多移民群体美食的方式如出一辙O8jLGP4uw.m

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Some of the most beloved immigrant dishes in America are heavy and rich, like Italian lasagna or Mexican tres leches cake.

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在美国,一些最受欢迎的移民菜肴是厚重而浓郁的,比如意大利千层面或墨西哥三奶蛋糕!%!xaV0Vs2_.

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But immigrants weren't eating these foods all the time in the old country.

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但这些移民群体在他们的家乡并不经常吃这些食物-GqDvD9DWT.

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They were special occasion dishes.

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这些菜肴是用在特殊场合的WuYWQ,DA~]LB1

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When immigrants were missing the flavors of home, they often chose to make the meals that reminded them of holidays and family gatherings instead of the cheaper and less heavy foods they ate more regularly.

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当移民怀念家乡的味道时,他们往往会选择能让他们回忆起假期和家庭聚会的食物,而不是他们更经常吃的更便宜、味道不那么浓郁的食物#3f@baoBOU=We

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